It has been two years since we first reviewed Piccino Cafe in a previous Trip Report. Opening in Dogpatch in late 2006, just off the new Muni T line, they originally provided espresso bar service at their 801 22nd Street pizzeria. A year later they moved their coffee bar operations to kiosk at the end of 22nd Street (closer to 3rd St.), to be closer to the commuters. But most recently (late 2008), they converted a tiny space at 807 22nd Street and devoted it to all their coffee bar operations.

If you thought the original space in the pizzeria was small, the latest one is minuscule: there’s barely enough room for a couple of benches (there are no tables save for one devoted to coffee “condiments”) and a barista behind the espresso bar.

They use the original two-group La Marzocco GB/5 they’ve carried over since the pizzeria days. Their espresso shots are doubles by default, and they pull them with deliberate timing to produce a thinner medium brown crema. The crema on Piccino’s original shots was more of a deeper medium brown with darker brown flecks and a foamy consistency, but it can vary a little.

Using Blue Bottle‘s special Piccino blend (which they sell retail), the shot is short and compact with a potent herbal pungency and a good brightness. Surprisingly, the body is not as dense considering the small volume of the shot — it used to be more syrup-like with a natural sweetness at the bottom that now seems to be lacking. Still, no one element overwhelms, leaving the cup rather balanced in flavors. Served in classic brown Nuova Point cups.

Read the updated review of Piccino Cafe.

This newer café/pizza place lies in the little-known neighborhood of Dogpatch, just off the new SF Muni T line. It’s a small space with a couple of indoor tables and a few out front on the corner sidewalk. Just inside the door on the left is a small espresso bar: home to a two-group La Marzocco GB/5, and about five stools that surround it. They reportedly use a custom blend from Blue Bottle Coffee Company, and they also serve wine and beer.

Their espresso shots are doubles by default, and they pull them with deliberate timing to produce a deep, medium brown crema with darker brown flecks and a foamy consistency. Served in classic brown Nuova Point cups, it has a potent herbal pungency, a syrup-like consistency, and some natural sweetness at the bottom. No one individual element excels in the cup, but they all work very well in harmony.

Read the review of Piccino Cafe.

Now for the controversy…

I certainly love a great espresso no matter how it is made. But the Blue Bottle-La Marzocco-Nuova Point combination has come up more than a few times lately. It was just two weeks ago that I finally stumbled into Velo Rouge Cafe for roughly the exact same espresso/espresso pedigree. Of course, three years ago this kind of local quality would have moved me to tears. But there’s a difference between quality and “sameness”.

For example, SF may have a lot of excellent places to eat, but their menus rarely deviate much from each other (insert Niman Ranch/burrata cheese/organic, local beet salad here). Perhaps we are starting to get a little more like Italy — with a greater availability of good quality espresso, and yet suffering more from a certain sameness.

The good news is that the best espresso here is definitely giving Italy’s best some serious competition. However, I only hope to see more places pushing the boundaries and challenging the status quo.

Until its closure last year, Café Organica offered SF residents a taste of that. But today if you want to try espresso made from a rotation of single estate beans and/or from a choice of different roasts, for example, you have to travel to the likes of Barefoot Coffee Roasters or Caffé del Doge. Copycats are fine when it’s something excellent, but there’s clearly more than one way to make a great espresso.