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Archived Posts from this Category
Celebrities are out in full regalia. Tension is in the air. It must be time to review the reviewers as we recap the winners of CitySearch.com’s 2005 Best San Francisco Coffee.
Each year, CitySearch.com stages regional popularity contests for establishments in different categories. And each year, they tabulate the online votes from the users of their Web sites.
Citing their Web site, let’s take it from the bottom and work our way the pinnacle of San Francisco coffee…
10. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf
2201 Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA
A family-run empire of cafe-shops that’s been brewing caffeinated beverages since 1963.
So you grew up in the Los Angeles basin and have been looking for a local hangout since moving to the Upper Fillmore? This is the place for you. But if you must pick a chain, this isn’t a bad one (save for their problematic new café on Market St.). Afterall, this chain is where Café Organica‘s Eton Tsuno got his start.
9. Caffe Greco
423 Columbus Ave, San Francisco, CA
Strong, authentic espresso draws Italian expats to this highly regarded cafe.
Like much of North beach, this café is hardly the Italian stalwart it used to be. You’re more likely to hear the barista singing Alejandro Sanz than Dean Martin. But the espresso is good, albeit inconsistent, and the atmosphere almost feels like you’re in Italy.
Big plus: recent copies of the pink La Gazzetta dello Sport are freely available on the wall near the cashier to catch up on the latest Serie A calcio (Italian soccer) scores and post-game debate.
Big minus: Their coffee is packed in cans and flown over 6,000 miles before it makes it into your cup. Illy may be the king of quality when it comes to packaged coffee, but freshness is not one of their virtues.
8. Blue Danube Coffee House
306 Clement St, San Francisco, CA
Bohemian java joint with an extensive menu of eats.
Again with the eats? Always be wary of a coffee place known for its food. Not surprisingly, Blue Danube didn’t even break my Top 150. I can only imagine they are ranked for their bohemian atmosphere and the lack of good coffee options along the Taiwanese-American Clement St. corridor. Come for the espresso, but stay for the live geoduck.
If you ever go on a quest for good espresso in Taipei, I can guarantee that this will make your Top 10 list too. (I know from personal experience.)
7. Caffe Trieste
609 Vallejo St, San Francisco, CA
Settle down with an espresso, soak up the bohemian North Beach ambience and think existential thoughts ’til sundown.
Mama mia! This café is one of the true old Italian holdouts in North Beach, down to the weekend opera. Their espresso can be a bit dark for some, but it’s still one of the better examples in the city.
And to the critics, Caffe Trieste may have evolved more to become what it used to represent rather than what it truly is today. But what better place to lay down the script to The Godfather?
6. Mr Espresso
696 3RD St, Oakland, CA
CitySearch.com had nothing to say about this lone entry outside of the SF city confines. Probably because their editors had no idea that Mr. Espresso doesn’t serve coffee. Mr. Espresso is a long time family institution in the Bay Area — as a roaster, as a supplier of machines, and as a provider of training and other coffee service. They are arguably the best full-service espresso outfit around.
I recently talked with Luigi DiRuocco, a staffer there. He lamented over the many Bay Area cafés that neglect staff training. Mr. Espresso apparently made staff training a big initiative, and they’re working to convince their customers that their shots are capable of so much more. I am the primo uomo in that choir.
Props to the CitySearch.com users who thought to vote for this local institution, even if you can’t buy a cup of joe from them.
5. Tartine Bakery
600 Guerrero St, San Francisco, CA
This small storefront bakery lights up the Mission with sophisticated French pastries and artisanal loaves.
Two major problems with this brief write up. First: that’s nice about the loaves, but what about the coffee? Second: it’s French!
That said, this is a fantastic bakery with a fiendishly original/old school espresso setup. They get bonus points for trying very hard at their espresso, and for the most part it pays off. Eventhough their espresso is more in the French style, it does not come off bitter and watery. Their espresso quality is held back most, however, by the limits of their novelty Faema machine. Sometimes you have to sacrifice form for a little function.
4. Cafe Abir
1300 Fulton St, San Francisco, CA
Loyal Western Addition regulars line up for the house blend at this neighborhood cafe.
I never understood the appeal of Café Abir… or at least the appeal of their coffee. Yes, they roast it themselves. Yes, they also won the 2003 SF Bay Guardian readers’ award for Best Independent Coffeehouse. But their espresso just barely cracked my Top 350.
I can only attribute their ranking here to the intense neighborhood loyalty of its patrons, who seem to value the commendable efforts the owners have made to improve the Divisidero neighborhood. That and they do carry a nice selection of reading material at their newsstand.
File under: I just don’t get it. Maybe if I regularly got my coffee at the Church’s Chicken down the street, I’d feel the love.
3. Farley’s Coffeehouse
1315 18th St, San Francisco, CA
Giant java drinks and a no-way-Jose policy on nonfat milk make this coffeehouse a local favorite.
Like Abir, Farley’s benefits from the strong local loyalties of a somewhat isolated city community. It’s a great hang out, but unlike Café Abir, the espresso is also quite good.
(Though as an aside, I personally like the texture qualities of nonfat milk when making my own macchiatos at home, so I don’t get their badge of honor here.)
2. Peet’s Coffee & Tea
2139 Polk St Ste C, San Francisco, CA
Even post-IPO, Peet’s celebrates its bohemian upbringing with dark-roast beans.
I have yet to sample every Peet’s in the Bay Area, and this outlet is proof of that. While I have noticed significant differences between some Peet’s cafés, I can safely assume that this one ranks among the best of the Peet’s I have reviewed. Which is a pretty great cup of espresso. Alfred should remain proud of his legacy.
Particularly with the recent demise of Torrefazione Italia — once Starbucks bought them out and mercilessly flushed their superior brand of competition down the toilet — there is no better Bay Area chain at making espresso today.
1. Dolores Park Cafe
501 Dolores Street @18th, San Francisco, CA
A clean, welcoming coffeehouse and lunch spot with a prime location next to Dolores Park.
More and more dogs in the city must be getting Internet access, because that’s my only explanation for why Dolores Park Cafe would get the nod for San Francisco’s best coffee.
This is a great spot to bring Fifi, have an omelet, and read the morning paper with a great view of nearby Dolores Park. Their espresso is a rather workman-like effort, but it mostly does the trick. But best coffee?!
It’s a fitting closing to this article, though, when I can conclude that San Francisco espresso has gone to the dogs.
A couple years ago, after caffeinating myself to dangerously jittery levels in my quest to sample and review every espresso served in the city of San Francisco, I had the idea of publishing my findings in a book. Crazy idea? Probably. I had written and published a book before, so I certainly should have known better. But friends encouraged me, and I was weak.
Ten book proposals to targeted Bay Area publishers and ten polite rejections later, I got the message. This town wasn’t ready to do for coffee what it had already done for restaurants, wine bars, burritos, and dog walking parks. Or was it?
For years now, I’ve contributed restaurant and nightlife reviews for those slaves to group-think, Zagat Survey. Recently, I received an e-mail from them notifying me of an entirely new survey they were holding: Zagat’s Best Coffee & Tea Places. Apparently, they are holding surveys for multiple cities throughout the country, including Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., and San Francisco.
My first thought at seeing this was, “Finally — some validation that my idea is legitimate!” (Insert vision here of mad Dr. Frankenstein surrounded by lightning as his creation rises from the operating table.)
Books about local coffee are not new in many of the cities known for their coffee appreciation: Seattle, San Francisco, Rome, etc. Yet almost all of them say nothing about the quality of the coffee. Disappointingly, they instead obsess over many of the “café society” aspects: the charming decor, the leftist politics, the house salads, and what pompous literature the guy in the $400 designer glasses is reading next to you.
So I started the survey with cautiously optimistic hopes that somebody cares about the coffee … while knowing full well of the Zagat model’s terrible ratings pitfalls. (The Zagat Survey Music or Zagat Movie guides, anyone? More on that below.)
The survey begins with checkboxes for a number of pre-selected cafés, coffeehouses, and tea rooms in the greater Bay Area. In the coffee category, the nominees include (among a few other notables) Abir, Blue Bottle, Flying Goat (one of my favorite North Bay cafés), Emporio Rulli, Farley’s, Ritual, Roma, and Trieste. Notably absent is Café Organica and Frog Hollow Farm, but fortunately there is an “Other” checkbox to allow write-in votes. And while Tully’s is also listed, surprisingly they have omitted other notable large chains such as Peet’s and (dare I mention?) Starbucks.
Once you have selected the places you’ve visited, you are prompted with the following questions for them:
I am encouraged that they asked for best coffee, latte, cappuccino, and, above all, best espresso votes. But their irrelevant questions about indulgent coffee experiences (?!), seasonal beverages, holiday gifts, and where to bring my pet are confusing at best — disturbing at worst.
Furthermore, Zagat’s fatal systemic flaw is that what’s popular is a reliably poor indicator of what is truly best — or at least, as in the case of Zagat Music and Zagat Movies, what’s truly best for you and your tastes. This fatal flaw is particularly noticeable in an area where consumers are only just starting to educate themselves and their tastes, such as quality coffee and espresso drinks.
This is why I think the educated and consistent palate of the single tastemaker approach — as Robert Parker, Jr. is to wine — is much more useful than a popularity contest when it comes to finding and learning about great coffee and espresso. It wasn’t that long ago (before Starbucks) that the public’s general idea of “good coffee” meant a caffeinated brown liquid, warmed on a Bunn burner, that didn’t make you wince.
Conjecture about what Zagat might actually do with these survey results may be in vain anyway. Oddly enough, this survey is nothing like the typical Zagat review process. Their questions only ask for your favorite place among each category, rather than the usual procedure of rating each establishment on the same criteria.
Arguably, Zagat may not be planning a book to review local coffee after all. Rather, they likely conducted this survey as merely an experiment to gauge the potential quality of their reviewer data and to test the waters for a potential new publishing market.
Given the questions they asked, it is looking like this Dr. Frankenstein needs to go back to the lab a little longer.