With a name that sounds a lot naughtier for the neighborhood standard, Hooker’s Sweet Treats has probably disappointed more than a few thrill-seeking passersby in the Upper Tenderloin/Lower Nob Hill area. (What some realtor wannabes call the “Tendernob”.) But for those who venture here for coffee and confections, it’s something of a destination.
Opening almost exactly a year ago, this dark, small 700-square-foot chocolate/salt caramel confectioner is run by David “Hooker” Williams. It also sports an impressive coffee setup, showcasing some of the beans from friends and local, recent roasters Sightglass Coffee Roasters.
The small space is decorated with vintage wallpaper on the walls, old wooden benches, vintage Cracker Jack boxes on display, and something of an old mariner theme with pelicans carved in wood. They have a single bench for seating on the sidewalk out front. Inside, there is a long table with a shared bench and some chairs — in addition to window counter seating among three stools.
Using a two-group La Marzocco Linea, the owner pulls shots of Sightglass’ Owl’s Howl espresso blend. The resulting shot is somewhat bright without being ridiculously so (as often happens in SF). It comes with a richly colored, mottled medium and dark brown crema that only comes from fresh-roasted coffee supplies. They pull doubles as a default into black ACF cups, and while the pour is of a modest size it lacks real body or heft. The flavor suggests some cedar and a touch of honey over some basic pleasant spiciness. Not particularly rounded, but not too narrow.
It isn’t even close to one of the best espresso shots you ever had, but it will do — particularly in a neighborhood not known for good coffee options. That and we celebrate the addition of another quality local roaster to the mix of options at Bay Area cafés — particularly while the risks of roaster hegemony reign high
Read the review of Hooker’s Sweet Treats.
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