Yesterday Atlanta’s The Sunday Paper published an article on Batdorf & Bronson, an artisinal coffee roaster in Olympia, WA who supplies a number of top-rated restaurants in the Atlanta area, as well as cafés and retailers such as Whole Foods Market: 05/06/07 FOOD: Zen and the art of coffee roasting > SundayPaper.com > Current Articles. Batdorf & Bronson also has roasting facilities in Atlanta, and they are preparing to open up their own retail space in “Hotlanta,” as the locals say (or, “Mylanta,” as I would say). And yes, it will come with the obligatory Clover brewer.
The article pays some garbled homage to that third wave nonsense, but most interesting was its reference to chef Marco Pierre White — cited as the first “rock-star chef” and credited with putting London on the culinary map. Tomorrow Chef White is making a sold-out, $190-a-plate guest chef appearance at SF’s Incanto — coinciding with the recent release of his new book, The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness and the Making of a Great Chef.
White earned a three-star Michelin Guide rating as head chef at London’s L’Escargot at age 33 — the youngest Brit ever to do so. Part of the credit for this, as the article cites from his new book, was advice White received from a Michelin reviewer, who told him, “If you start serving amuse-bouches and improve your coffee, you won’t be a million miles away.”
Ahhh, restaurant coffee. Even the finest restaurants suffer megalomaniac chefs with an acute coffee hubris. But at least I am comforted to know that the Michelin reviewers are paying attention to the beverage. We can only hope that more chefs will follow their sage advice.
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