Over this past weekend, Sarah Gilbert posted in the blog Slashfood that Food & Wine Magazine named Ritual Roasters among America’s top coffee bars: Top U.S. coffee ‘bars’ include La Colombe, Ritual Coffee Roasters – Slashfood. Also honored was Philadelphia’s La Colombe Torrefaction and Manhattan’s Ninth Street Espresso.

It’s great to see more people in the culinary arts appreciating some of this country’s finest purveyors of the coffee arts. But there’s a long way to go. Restaurants still typically serve significantly inferior espresso to coffee houses and cafés almost universally.

And also in Food & Wine Magazine recently, Laura Cunningham, general manager of Napa Valley’s French Laundry and partner of Super Chef Thomas Keller, espoused the virtues of Equator Estate coffee — her favorite, and what they serve at the French Laundry: French Laundry’s Lessons. A very good choice, but not one that reflects a savvy for coffee that’s near the level they exhibit for food.